Here be dragons: Komodo is paradise refound, but watch out for the locals

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Indonesian national park offers snorkelling, trekking and spectacular views from the summits – but everyone comes to see the large lizards

Hang around in Bali long enough and you’ll meet some old timer who’ll tell you that the island is spoilt and crowded, but back in the 70s and 80s it was paradise.

What is paradise, anyway? All the paradises have been lost – at least that’s what I thought.

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